SLQ Wiki facilities:hte:projects

A4 / 5 & 6 Vacuum Formers

anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous) — Sat, 15 Apr 2023 11:15:07 +0000

A4 / 5 & 6 Vacuum Formers

This project was developed by Andrew & the 'Hack The Evening' team at The Edge in 2017.

Further documentation can be found at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1951311.

Note : This design was further developed from work done by Aether (see https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:35486)

Intro

Vacuum forming is a way to produce a mould from a solid form by sucking a softened ( heated ) plastic sheet over the outside of the form. Moulds that can be used as packaging ( the tray in a box of chocolates, for example ) masks, or when joined in pairs, to cast solid or hollow objects from other materials ( a chocolate Easter egg, for example ). The form could be made from clay, plaster, 3D printed or an existing - heat stable object. The mould material is usually a thin ( about 0.5mm ) sheet of a thermoplastic such as PET, polypropylene or HDPE either new, or recycled ( 2L milk bottles are a cheap but labour intensive source of food grade HDPE ).

The design of the mould needs to avoid sharp undercuts or overhangs, as this might prevent the form being removed after the mould has been formed. Fine surface detail might require a thinner sheet of mould material for effective reproduction.

This design has been used successfully up to A4 size with a domestic vacuum cleaner as the source of suction. Larger formats may require a stronger vacuum to work effectively.

Materials

50mm extruded polystyrene insulation foam
6mm plywood
pegboard
aluminium insect mesh
6 M6 x 20 countersunk machine screws
6 M6 flat washers
6 M6 wingnuts

To make a mould

A5 pieces of a thermoplastic (many varieties are possible, we use HDPE from recycled milk bottles)

Tools

CNC router or jigsaw to cut plywood and pegboard
CNC knife or boxcutter to cut foam (hot wire could also work)
snips to cut metal flywire
hot glue gun and glue sticks
drill and bits (6mm and countersink bit)

To use the former you will also need

craft knife to cut the plastic to size
A5 jig or metal ruler
heat gun (paint stripper) to soften the plastic

Step 9 - Using the Vacuum Former

The following pictures show the vacuum former in action making a waterproof enclosure for an electronics project.

The material used is an A5 piece of HDPE plastic, which can be cut from a clean 2L milk bottle.

Note that this model of the vacuum former has been made from multiple layers of laser cut plywood (cut files available on request), instead of the polystyrene foam. This produces a more robust device but at much increased cost.

Prepare your Plastic

Unscrew the wing-nuts on the vacuum former frame

Fit your sheet of plastic in the frame

Tighten the wingnuts firmly

Begin heating your plastic with the hot air gun

It will slowly start to go clear

Keep heating

When the entire sheet is clear - grab it

And lower it over your object to be vacuum sealed

do it from the top - looking down
do it quickly! You have about five seconds before the plastic starts to cool

Turn on your vacuum ….fast

Turn it off when the plastic has gone milky again

Congratulations ! You've made a vacuum form!

Development notes

Documentation to be completed …

Feedback

References

thingiverse :

Files

Version 1: made from multiple layers of 6mm plywood, using a laser cutter. This design is very robust, but requires a lot of laser time and relatively more expensive materials.

a5_vacuum_former_cutfiles_v1.zip

Version 2: made from extruded polystyrene insulation foam, pegboard, aluminium flywire and 6mm plywood, using a CNC router. This design is cheaper, uses more widely available materials and less fasteners (but more glue).

a5_vacuum_former_cutfiles_v2.zip

Version 3: made from extruded polystyrene insulation foam, with central void reduced to make gluing bottom easier.

a5_vacuum_former_cutfiles_v3.zip

X-Carve Acoustic/Tool Wall

anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 19 Feb 2019 15:20:58 +0000

X-Carve Acoustic/Tool Wall

(a picture of the finished product could go here too)

Summary

(Describe why the project was undertaken, what problem you wanted to solve, which target group this might suit and what the product might be used for. as well as any other details you think important)

Materials

(List the materials you used, with dimensions, and quantities. This is often easier to do once the project is at the beta testing stage, but that means you will need to keep a list as you go. It is useful to collect the details of suppliers, quantities, prices and websites in an Excel sheet as an aid to those who follow you - you can upload the Excel table at the end of this document in the space provided)

Tools

(List all the tools you used to complete the project, from #1 Philips screwdrivers, to the CNC machine)

Progress to date

(Use this section as a running summary of how the project is going so that others can follow. Diary type entries, with dates, would be a good format.)

Instructions

(This is where you put the step-by-step photos showing how to carry out your project, as well as an explanation in words. Rename the steps as you like, use italics or bold for emphasis.

Don't forget to include design files for CNC, laser cutting or 3D printing but remember they need to be zipped before uploading to the Wiki (it is also useful if they are in a transferable format, .svg rather than .ai, for example)).

Step One:

Step Two:

Step Three:

Step Four:

etc

Development notes

(This is where you can put ideas that you tried, but which did not work (and why))

Feedback

(Here you can put any suggestions from users that you have not yet implemented, and mention any unforeseen difficulties encountered in operation or construction)

References

This were you put external links like LED generator, if they have not appeared in the Instructions.

Files

This is where you put files for laser cutting, Excel sheets of suppliers etc..

Acrylic Offcut Shelving

anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 19 Feb 2019 15:20:59 +0000

Acrylic Offcut Shelving

(a picture of the finished product could go here too)

Summary

Materials

Tools

(List all the tools you used to complete the project, from #1 Philips screwdrivers, to the CNC machine)

Progress to date

(Use this section as a running summary of how the project is going so that others can follow. Diary type entries, with dates, would be a good format.)

Instructions

(This is where you put the step-by-step photos showing how to carry out your project, as well as an explanation in words. Rename the steps as you like, use italics or bold for emphasis.

Step One:

Step Two:

Step Three:

Step Four:

etc

Development notes

(This is where you can put ideas that you tried, but which did not work (and why))

Feedback

(Here you can put any suggestions from users that you have not yet implemented, and mention any unforeseen difficulties encountered in operation or construction)

References

This were you put external links like LED generator, if they have not appeared in the Instructions.

Files

This is where you put files for laser cutting, Excel sheets of suppliers etc..

Project name

anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 19 Feb 2019 15:20:59 +0000

Project name

(a picture of the finished product could go here too)

Summary

Materials

Tools

(List all the tools you used to complete the project, from #1 Philips screwdrivers, to the CNC machine)

Progress to date

(Use this section as a running summary of how the project is going so that others can follow. Diary type entries, with dates, would be a good format.)

Instructions

(This is where you put the step-by-step photos showing how to carry out your project, as well as an explanation in words. Rename the steps as you like, use italics or bold for emphasis.

Step One:

Step Two:

Step Three:

Step Four:

etc

Development notes

(This is where you can put ideas that you tried, but which did not work (and why))

Feedback

(Here you can put any suggestions from users that you have not yet implemented, and mention any unforeseen difficulties encountered in operation or construction)

References

This were you put external links like LED generator, if they have not appeared in the Instructions.

Files

This is where you put files for laser cutting, Excel sheets of suppliers etc..

Contra Cabinet

anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 19 Feb 2019 15:21:02 +0000

Contra Cabinet

Summary

From sign

NOT Contra -
The Edge’s Arcade Cabinet

This cabinet was originally built by Peter Musk and others at The Edge as part of the May 2015 Brisbane Powerhouse “IRL Digital Festival”, where it was a part of a series of cabinets made to showcase a series of classic games.

Most the other cabinets found new homes, however after being stripped of it’s computer, ‘Contra’ was left in the Fabrication Lab’s junk store where it languished for many years.

In mid 2017, after a few false starts and looking for a break from larger projects, some of the Thursday Hack the Evening group decided to repair and recommission the cabinet to a modern system for public use.

Attempting to leave as much of the original intact possible and using only found pieces, the rebuild was completed near the end of 2017. It was installed in its current location, adding it’s ‘NOT’ sign, during the end of year holidays.

Resources

Materials

~~MDF for the top. (From internal stock)~~
~~Buttons/switches. (In box labeled 'Arcade Machine')~~
~~Control hardware. (Same)~~
~~New screen. (Maybe? Maybe current one is good enough.)~~

Tools

MultiCAM CNC: Cut new control panel and (maybe) screen frame
Soldering/electronics
Basic hand tools
Vinyl cutter: For new panel graphics

Jobs

Restore

~~Decide on layout and make new panel~~
~~Wire up remade panel~~
~~Work out layout/design for new screen.~~
~~Install new sound system~~
~~Find, install new PC and set up OS and basic games~~
Install MAME on PC
~~External USB ports~~
External headphone port
New graphics for front panel
Tidy up existing graphics(tape?glue?)

Future

CNC new panel
- Remember to allow for pockets for the joysticks.
Removable control panel system
- Top should be removable with no tools (Magnets? Catches?)
Token accepting (Start 15min(?) countdown timer to allow fair play)
Display case for carts
Multi cart reading
LED 'current games' display: Led Dot Matrix 64x16pixel
New player one joystick: https://www.ultimarc.com/ultrastik_info.html
Trackball. If we can find a way to disable when not in games

Cabinet and Hardware

NOTE: Theses segments are in rough chronological order. However further progress on the same item is added to that item.

Old top

This is kept stored inside the cabinet for future reference and to keep all the original woodwork in the same place.
It uses a gutted xbox controller for the cabinet's original use. Buttons were salvaged but microswitches left intact.
When the replaceable panel system is built, it would be nice to reinstate it that as one of the options.

Layout

Measurements

New top

Layout

Based on a modified Street Fighter layout that seems to be one of the most versatile single panel options.

http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout/hybrid36_m.png

New panel drawn out and cut using hand tools, a bit rough but will do.

IPAC2 controler wired up. Tested.

New control panel Painted.

Replace screen

The old LCD TV screen was a missing it's power supply and a few other parts.

A newer much better computer screen was found in the piles of equipment. Old screen was removed and front cut to fit new one.

Fix viewing angle

The cabinet's original design was based on plans with a few design problems for the current use and included a large overhang above the screen that prevented any adults not sitting down from using it.

This was the only major piece of rebuilding that was done to the cabinet and a decision was made to not change as little as possible while making it usable.

All materials were salvaged from previous changes or recut to suit the new angles and major joins were filled and sanded but minor imperfections were left.

Test fitting

Bog and sanding

Finished

Sound

A sound system with external volume control and optional internal lighting was installed.

External USB/Volume

Four external USB ports were added, two on the lower part of the cabinet, two above the main panel.

3d printed sockets were used: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:650689
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3FT-Dual-USB-2-0-Port-Male-to-Female-Panel-Mount-Cable-Waterproof-Cords-Black-/162664572450?

Replace top sockets with:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1M-3-5mm-USB-2-0-AUX-Socket-Extension-Lead-Panel-Cable-Car-Dashboard-Flush-Mount-/362025141079?

Securing and Cooling

Originally fans were planned to keep the cabinet cool due to having a large LCD monitor and a PC running inside it,
however during testing it was found that leaving speakers or other parts out at the top created enough of a chimney effect to provide more than adequate cooling.

As just cutting slots in the top would be ugly and allow dust ingress, louvered down vents were donated and installed. The cabinet now stays cool.

Once it was realised that the cabinet would end up being installed in open public areas and games started to be donated, a simple lock was installed.
As the cabinet is just screwed together anyway, something that would prevent opening without tools was chosen as adequate.

Analog Joystick

Cheap, robust but functional analog joystick for playing games that require smoother control.

Analog stick is mounted on an acrylic plate to allow easy replacement as final design will likely be Ultimarc UltraStik 360 installed as Player One's main joystick with a trackball replacing the current stick in a new peice of acrylic. It was done this way to experiment with analog inputs and play with a budget option as the UltraStik will be close to $100 instead of about $20 for this one.

Joysick Library: https://github.com/MHeironimus/ArduinoJoystickLibrary
Curve correction: https://www.chiefdelphi.com/media/papers/2421
Ultimarc UltraStik: https://www.ultimarc.com/ultrastik_info.html

Cutting the hole for the new joystick and building the actual joystick:

Underside and finished control:

'Fix' button and Lighting

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Full-Color-RGB-LED-Strip-Driver-Module-Shield-for-Arduino-UNO-R3-STM32-AVR-12VDC-V1/32829348653.html?

Computer and Software

Tasks

A new computer was found, Linux was installed, along with a bunch of open source and donated games and the current menu system written.
Graphics card
etc

Graphics? Test GL? (New computer?)
Screensaver. (Pulls from directory on machine)
Map joysticks and keyboards to same devices each time. (https://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1595666)
Auto start and menu. (Mostly done)
Power switch? Wake on power? http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=134179.0

Useful links

Linux:

Emulator/Frontend:

https://www.reddit.com/r/RetroPie/comments/4a8ncv/ipac2_config_on_retropie_works_with_mame_nes_snes/

Games

Donated

N64: Mario Kart64
N64: Super64 Mario
N64: Yoshi's Story
Atari 2600: River Raid
Atari 2600: GORF
Atari 2600: Pole Position
Atari 2600: Mario Bros
Atari 2600: Stargate
PC: Welltris

Loaned

SNES: *Super Mario* All*Stars
SNES: Tetris & Dr Mario
PC: Jazz Jackrabbet

Shareware

PC: Commander Keen
PC: Quake

Open Source

Frozen Bubble
Neverball
Extreme Tux Racer
Digger Remastered
Descent Rebirth (Currently running shareware levels)
OldSkoolGravityGame
Evil Tetris
Blockout II
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SuperTuxKart

List of other games:

Photos

Development notes

Hardware/cabinet:

Cabinet is made from CNC (for the sides) and hand cut(for the rest) MDF(?size?). Painted on the edges and decorated with vynal and masked spraypaint.
Improvements can be made by routing corners to create curves, by hand or machine. And by using laminate or push in edging strips.
Most minor pannels are removable to give easy access. However this does compromise strength in some ways.

Screen is a standard LCD set back at an angle and installed into a wooden bracket. There is plenty of room to install a CRT without it's case for a more tradtional look.
The pannel the screen is installed in is a removable peice to allow modifcations later. Screws fix in from the back.
The front has a sheet of 1mm PETG(Acrylic or polycarb also works fine) to protect the screen from touches, keep dust out and allow for easy cleaning. This does cause problems with reflections in some areas.

Back door is hinged, due to the materials and methods, the whole frame does twist when the door is opened, requiring a slight lifting to close.
The bottom 30cm of the cabinet at the back is open, allowing access to machine controls. This is fitted with wooden bars preventing machine removal.
Cabinet is fitted with a latch and lock, allowing the contence to be secured when in public or semi-public places.
A light duty lock is fine, as a screwdriver is all that is required to get in anyway by removing panels anyway. Planning and glue can be used to trade security for ease of future modication.

Due to the large bottom opening and simple electronics, ventlation is done entirely passivly. Two lovoured external type vents are installed on the back near the top, allowing hot air to escape.
A more secured design or powerfull gaming machine may require a fan drawing air in at the lower back and exausting at the top.

The control panel has been made to be easly replaceable, keeping any connections back to the electronics simple plugs and requiring either few or no tools to replace. It's hand cut MDF but new versions can be CNCed.
A more solid/secure cabinet would have fully screwed in top. It's not recomened to glue this in place due to changing nature of games and controls.
Current layout is 'modified street fighter' allowing most games to be mapped in some sane way to the controls.
This is the main reason why the removable top was chosen, to allow for layout changes. More than likely this design will change over time as it's turned out to be non-ideal for systems such as SNES.

Cabinet includes internal hooks and storage for cables, spare parts, spare control panenels and other peices, keeping everything together. This was extensivly taken advantage of during the restoration to hoard parts until needed.

Electronics:

As flexabilty was in mind, the cabinet's electroncs are as generic as possable. Allowing changing out for diffrent systems as required.
The current primary goal was a simple Linux PC based MAME/Emulator/PC Game system, the computer dosen't need to be very powerful but some requirements must be meet.
(Insrt specs here)
This allows anything from somewhat current PC games to original arcade emulators. A much more powerfull 'gaming' PC could be easly installed.
For low energy use, screen could be replaced with a modern ultra low power LED backlit LCD tied to a a raspberry Pi 3 running RetroPi or similar.

Sound is done through two second-hand speekers from a TV with black grills over the top and a cheap 15W amplifier connected up to the PC.
External volume control is installed bewteen the PC and amp, allowing easy control despite many diffrent games having diffrent volume levels as well as complete muting.
An external headphone socket will be fitted in the future.

RGB LED lighting is fitted behind the speeker grills for future work.

The control panel is built around a Ultimarc I-PAC 2 Arcade Controler. ( https://www.ultimarc.com/ipac1.html )
Chosen for flexabilty and software surport. However any similar device will work fine. Including arduino based designs.
Controls are standard off the shelf microsswitch style arcade buttons and joysticks. Excact choice of buttons and styles will depend on chosen layout.
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&SearchText=arcade+button+microswitch https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&SearchText=arcade+joystick+replacement

Four external USB ports have been installed. Two on the right hand side of the screen(Soon to be 1 USB, 1 headphone). (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1M-3-5mm-USB-2-0-AUX-Socket-Extension-Lead-Panel-Cable-Car-Dashboard-Flush-Mount-/362025141079? )
As well as two on the right side below the control panel. ( http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1m-Car-Dashboard-Mount-Flush-Mount-Dual-USB-Socket-Extension-Lead-Panel-Cable-/401357279542? )
This allows games to be brought from home, controlers such as analog joystick or gamepads to be connected, as well as a keyboard and mouse for matinance work.

A button on the right hand side of the control panel connects to the power switch on the PC, allowing easy switch on/shut down.

Feedback/Problems

Keyboard controller(IPAC2) sometimes stops responding to some keys. Unplugging and re-plugging(power cycle) fixes this.
These panels take a pounding. After 6 months of use every single switch came loose. Hot glue has now acts as as thread lock to hold them in place.
Children always find a way to break things. Even if you have no idea how they do it.
Hide the keyboard and mouse. People are too used to computers and will try and use them.

References

Files

This is where you put files for laser cutting, Excel sheets of suppliers etc..

Project Progress

Project

Percent Complete

Project Lead

Status

Budget Req

Budget Approved

Next Major Milestone

Subsequent Milestones to complete

Contra Cabinet

95%

Byron

Basic layout complete …

> $10

All hardware is now operational …

- Lighting & Sound to be revised ?

Line Robot

anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 19 Feb 2019 15:21:02 +0000

Line Robot

Summary

Modular education robot platform.

The robot is built around a simple 3mm laser cut acrylic frame with 3d printed attachments and parts. It can be assembled as a full featured, voice controlled, internet connected device down to a simple line following robot with price points to match.

Except for the self made parts(3d prints and lasercut) every component has multiple sources and equivalents, allowing the final user to choose between guaranteed parts from a reputable supplier(Genuine Adafruit) or the cheapest possible source(Aliexpress clone parts) and thus trade quality for price to the level where they are comfortable.

Bulk kits can be built up from just the laser cut/3d printed parts, maybe with fastener and a list of electronics with sources as well as complete kits.

The robot is intended to be deployed in one of two ways

As a pre-assembled learning platform

To teach programming, problem solving or similar in either C, MicroPython or Scratch(eventually). Each robot would be pre-built to match the intended language and workshop outcome, this allows organizers to test and debug each robot prior to the workshop, build spares and have a consistent and stable platform and helping the participants to focus on the coding and control side of things rather than using time assembling a standard machine. It also decreases costs due to having a reusable platform that can be on the high end of the price scale.

As a 'robot kit'

The focus of this is to build and test the actual robot platform. Participants would be given a (limited) set of options and encoraged to, stage by stage, build the robot up from a basic motion platform, adding sensors and interface, testing as they go until they have a final machine that can be taken home and learn using. In this style of workshop the testing code would be pre-written and can be simply uploaded to the robots as they progress.

Both of these workshop styles are also intended to feed back into the other one:

So you built a robot that works? Great! Want to learn how to program it yourself?
Learn how to program a robot? Great! Want to come back and build one?

Materials

Core Robot

Electronics:

Arduino.($4-5) Motor shield($5-8). Steppers($5/pair). Batteries($?). = ($20)
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170723064316&SearchText=Arduino+uno+r3
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=AS_20170723055351&SearchText=arduino+motor+shield+v2
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=AS_20170723055427&SearchText=28byj-48

Mechanical: (No idea for cost)

Laser cut: Top and bottom frame. Wheels(?) - Single sheet of acrylic
3d print: motor mounts. Pen mount. - Two robots per UP2
Bits: Nuts/bolts. O-rings. Double sided tape?

Wheels: http://bbs.espressif.com/viewtopic.php?t=1863 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:862438

Options

Input/output

Options: Each about $5 worth of parts. Pick two?

Screen/keyboard. (Basic robot control? Status display?) https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170723054152&SearchText=Keypad+Shield+Arduino

RGB Ring + button (Status? Prettiness? ) https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170723070849&SearchText=Arduino+button+pcb https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170723070641&SearchText=rgb+ring

One of these:

IR sensors. (Line following. ) Parts: Three(two?) sensors. Nuts/bolts. https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170723064723&SearchText=Arduino+line+sensor (Maybe?): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Four-Way-Infrared-Tracing-4-Channel-Tracking-Sensor-Module-Transmission-Line-Modules-Obstacle-Avoidance-for-Arduino/32437147325.html? https://www.hackster.io/16336/line-follower-robot-using-arduino-5f5698

Drawing. (Pre-programmed Shapes? Simple program and copy. May need keypad?) https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170723064804&SearchText=servo+sg90

Range finding(Wall following/people avoiding) Parts: One(two?) sensors. Simple bracket. (3d print?). http://www.webondevices.com/arduino-robot-car-obstacle-avoidance/

Other ideas

Cheap single message playback https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ISD1820-recording-module-voice-module-the-voice-board-telediphone-module-board-with-Microphones-Loudspeaker-for-arduino/32768903244.html? Bulky but multiable messages https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2pcs-ISD1700-Series-Voice-Record-Play-ISD1760-Module-For-Arduino-PIC-AVR/32308935869.html?

Pricy but voice commands. https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20170726165510&SearchText=Arduino+Voice+Recognition

Tools

Laser cutter for frame and wheels. 3D printer for motor mounts and line drawing Basic hand tools. Final design should only require a screwdriver to assemble.

Progress to date

Basic frame v.3 done. Most 3d printed parts done. Basic electronics tested.

Instructions

Accessories

Step One:

Step Two:

Step Three:

Step Four:

etc

Development notes

(This is where you can put ideas that you tried, but which did not work (and why))

Feedback

(Here you can put any suggestions from users that you have not yet implemented, and mention any unforeseen difficulties encountered in operation or construction)

References

This were you put external links like LED generator, if they have not appeared in the Instructions.

Files

redbase3-pdf.pdf

Project Progress

Line Robot

30%

Byron

Alpha Test Complete

> $50

Portable Spray Booth

anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 19 Feb 2019 15:21:02 +0000

Portable Spray Booth

Intro

Aim was to develop a basic spray booth to enable small scale painting of PC boards etc. …

!st prototype was made in house from sheets of cardboard - the following document is a how to procedure to make this.

Materials

List the materials you used, with dimensions, and quantities.

* 3mm fluted cardboard - 450mm x 600mm ( 7 sheets of )
* hot glue
* masking tape

Tools

(List all the tools you used to complete the project, from #1 Philips screwdrivers, to the CNC machine)

Instructions

(This is where you put the step-by-step photos showing how to carry out your project, as well as an explanation in words. Rename the steps as you like, use italics or bold for emphasis.

Step One:

Step Two:

Step Three:

Step Four:

etc

Development notes

(This is where you can put ideas that you tried, but which did not work (and why))

Feedback

(Here you can put any suggestions from users that you have not yet implemented, and mention any unforeseen difficulties encountered in operation or construction)

References

This were you put external links like LED generator, if they have not appeared in the Instructions.

Files

This is where you put files for laser cutting, Excel sheets of suppliers etc..

Links

- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2776341

Project Progress

Basic prototype development complete …

Log of works

Prototype done …
Added light & fan …
Cut files added …

Project Table

Project	Percent Complete	Project Lead	Status	Budget Req	Budget Approved	Next Major Milestone	Subsequent Milestones to complete
Portable Spray Booth	99%	Andrew	Ready to go	$0

Rotocaster

anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous) — Wed, 04 Dec 2019 12:21:57 +0000

Rotocaster

This project was developed by Byron & The Hack evening team as a Hack the Evening project at The Edge in 2017.

More information can be found at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2027135

Intro

The rotocaster is a device that allows hollow objects to be moulded from quick setting liquid materials such as polyurethane, silicone or chocolate.
Using a two part mould, slow-setting liquid material is added, the mould clamped together, and then placed in between the network of rubber bands seen. When switched on, the frames simultaneously rotate slowly in perpendicular directions, coating the inside of the mould with the material as it sets. If the quantities are chosen correctly, a hollow object is formed with the external face matching the mould used (wall thickness will depend on the amount of material added to the mould).

This device was used in a workshop making hollow chocolate Easter eggs during 2017.
Moulds were made using the Vacuum Former.

Materials

List the materials you used, with dimensions, and quantities.

* ( TBA )

Tools

(List all the tools you used to complete the project, from #1 Philips screwdrivers, to the CNC machine)

* Screw driver

Instructions

(This is where you put the step-by-step photos showing how to carry out your project, as well as an explanation in words. Rename the steps as you like, use italics or bold for emphasis.

Step One:

Step Two:

Step Three:

Step Four:

etc.

Development notes

(This is where you can put ideas that you tried, but which did not work & and why)

Feedback

(Here you can put any suggestions from users that you have not yet implemented, and mention any unforeseen difficulties encountered in operation or construction)

References

This were you put external links, if they have not appeared in the Instructions.

Files

rotocaster_rotomolder_made_from_common_parts.zip

Links

- https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2027135

Project Progress

Basic prototype development complete …

Log of works

* Prototype done …
* March 2017 : Assembled & Working …

Project Table

Project

Percent Complete

Project Lead

Status

Budget Req

Budget Approved

Next Major Milestone

Subsequent Milestones to complete

Rotocaster

90%

Byron

First Draft

> Hack the Evening Projects

anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 19 Feb 2019 15:21:00 +0000

> Hack the Evening Projects

Here are the current, proposed and finished projects from the Hack the Evening group.

Please only create projects here if they are finished or nearly completed and you are just documenting them.

For any actual new projects please use: Works in Progress

Project Audits

HtE Project Progress Audit

Project	Percent Complete	Project Lead	Status	Budget Req	Budget Approved	Next Major Milestone	Subsequent Milestones to complete
Vending Machine	10%	Hayden	Redesign ?	> $50		CNC session to be booked

Acrylic Offcut Shelves	20%	Hayden	Waiting On CNC	> $50		CNC session to be booked

3D printing Display Plinth	30%	Hayden	Waiting On CNC	> $50		CNC session to be booked

Leapfrog Printer	20%	Hayden	On Pause ( Hardware Required ? )	> $50		Get it moving

Prusa i3 Printers 1 & 2	80%	Bryon	Pause Beta Complete	~ $20		Software and Calibration to be completed	- Documentation - Dev Induction Learning Materials - Dev Engagement workshop

Prusa i3 Colour Printer	10%	Andrew	Partial build - Awaiting Components / Approvals	> $100		Frame & Printer Head

Line Robot	30%	Byron	Alpha Test Complete	> $50		Test working prototype

X Carve	95%	Byron	Waiting on Completion of Documentation	-		Public Documentation	- Review Induction Learning Materials
Ciclop 3d Scanner	90%	Andrew	Was complete but requires a redesign & build work for Z axis	> $55		Rework Design to integrate Z axis

Large Format Scanner	75%	Andrew	Waiting on some parts & fabrication work	> $250

Hi Resolution Scanner	10%	Andrew	Requires further investigations into High Resolution cameras	> $500		Will also need a computer that is able to scan @ higher resolutions …

Contra Cabinet	95%	Byron	Basic layout complete …	> $10		All hardware is now operational …

Portable Spray Booth	95%	Andrew	Prototype Completed & operational …	-		Drawings Done …	- Documentation to be updated - Induction Learning Materials - Dev Engagement workshop

Laser Material Display	60%	Hayden	Samples ?	-		Docmentation ?

Rotocaster	95%	Byron	Completed	-

A4/5/6 Vacuum Formers	98%	Andrew	Completed	-

A2 Vacuum Former	40%	Andrew	Prototype made up …	~$500	Awaiting arrival of materials	Plan Out Project stages

Transparent Circuits	10%	Byron	Prototyping

Near Field Communication CheckIn System	80%	Byron	Paused waiting institutional approval

Acoustic Tool Wall	20%	Hayden

Transparent Circuits

anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 19 Feb 2019 15:20:59 +0000

Transparent Circuits

Brief

Transparent Circuits made on Acrylic and Glass with a focus on artistic rather than traditional electronics.

Prototype One

1.5mm Acrylic, Kapton tape, Copper laminate.

Prototype Two

X-Carve

anonymous@undisclosed.example.com (Anonymous) — Tue, 19 Feb 2019 15:21:00 +0000

X-Carve

Originally a Shapoko 2 with X-Carve upgrade kit, the final machine has a guaranteed usable area of 700x700x50mm

It can take 1/8“, 1/4” or 6mm bits and has a spindle speed between fast and way too fast.

Software is Vetric VCarve Pro for toolpath generation and Candle for machine operation.

Technical

Mechanical, Electrical and Software summery and detail for machine repair and upgrades.

Operations

Documentation for both staff and final users