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workshops:public:kombucha_fashion:start [2017/11/09 08:53] peter [Kombucha Fashion] |
workshops:public:kombucha_fashion:start [2018/05/22 14:06] andrei ↷ Page moved from workshops:try_its:kombucha_fashion:start to workshops:public:kombucha_fashion:start |
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| This project was initiated by Cameron Wilson, with further technical development by Peter Musk and creative development by Jimmy Eng. | This project was initiated by Cameron Wilson, with further technical development by Peter Musk and creative development by Jimmy Eng. | ||
| - | Kombucha is a fermented product grown on sweet black tea, which produces a vinegary. carbonated drink with purported health benefits, and also a floating skin composed of bacterial cellulose (called a pellicle). This project uses the pellicle, which is washed, dried and treated to produce a tough, flexible sheet that can be raw material for making. | + | Kombucha is a fermented product grown on sweet black tea, which produces a vinegary, carbonated drink with purported health benefits, and also a floating skin composed of bacterial cellulose (called a pellicle). This project uses the pellicle, which is washed, dried and treated to produce a tough, flexible sheet that can be used as a raw material for making. |
| - | The method requires no sophisticated apparatus, can be undertaken at room temperature on an open benchtop, and produces a biodegradable fabric at minimal cost. As such, this is the first example of a program which develops participants' | + | The process of fermenting the kombucha and creating the pellicle ready for use takes about three weeks. |
| =====Materials===== | =====Materials===== | ||
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| =====Equipment===== | =====Equipment===== | ||
| - | * 1.5 to 2L capacity shallow tub or tray with a lid. (The shallower the liquid the better the pellicle grows.) | + | * 1.5 to 2L capacity shallow tub or tray with a lid. (The shallower the liquid the better the pellicle grows). |
| * Measuring jug, 500mL | * Measuring jug, 500mL | ||
| * Stirring spoon | * Stirring spoon | ||
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| Optional: | Optional: | ||
| - | * Washing up gloves | + | * Washing up gloves |
| * something to cut a small breather hole into the lid of your container (~30mm diameter hole) | * something to cut a small breather hole into the lid of your container (~30mm diameter hole) | ||
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| - Thoroughly clean all utensils and receptacles using mild detergent and rinse. (You can use sodium metabisulphate solution for this - follow instructions on the pack, and be sure to rinse thoroughly before use) | - Thoroughly clean all utensils and receptacles using mild detergent and rinse. (You can use sodium metabisulphate solution for this - follow instructions on the pack, and be sure to rinse thoroughly before use) | ||
| - Boil water and measure 500mL into your tub or tray | - Boil water and measure 500mL into your tub or tray | ||
| - | - Add 85g sugar stir til dissolved | + | - Add 85g sugar and stir until dissolved |
| - Measure out 6gm of tea and place in muslin (or other) bag | - Measure out 6gm of tea and place in muslin (or other) bag | ||
| - Add muslin bag of tea (or 6 teabags) to hot water | - Add muslin bag of tea (or 6 teabags) to hot water | ||
| - Wash your hands again | - Wash your hands again | ||
| - | - Cover tray/ tub with lid. | + | - Cover tray/ tub with lid |
| - | - Allow tea to steep until the brew cools to room temperature. | + | - Allow tea to steep until the brew cools to room temperature |
| - Yep… wash those hands again | - Yep… wash those hands again | ||
| - | - Remove muslin bag (or teabags) and add 400ml of cold water to the brew. | + | - Remove muslin bag (or teabags) and add 400ml of cold water to the brew |
| - | - Add at least 100ml of the starter sample of fermented kombucha tea. | + | - Add at least 100ml of the starter sample of fermented kombucha tea |
| - Replace the lid | - Replace the lid | ||
| - | - Keep your kombucha in a place where it won’t get disturbed and out of direct light. | + | - Keep your kombucha in a place where it won’t get disturbed and out of direct light |
| Optional: | Optional: | ||
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| * Dyeing: Because the pellicle is composed of cellulose (the same as cotton), many fabric dyes will be effective in colouring your creation. Dyeing is best done after washing, and before oiling – just follow the instructions for the dye. | * Dyeing: Because the pellicle is composed of cellulose (the same as cotton), many fabric dyes will be effective in colouring your creation. Dyeing is best done after washing, and before oiling – just follow the instructions for the dye. | ||
| * Rubbing coconut oil into the pellicle at this stage (before it dries) will produce a more supple and leather-like product. For best results, spread the wet pellicle on a flat surface, and rub all over (both sides) with fingers dipped in coconut oil. | * Rubbing coconut oil into the pellicle at this stage (before it dries) will produce a more supple and leather-like product. For best results, spread the wet pellicle on a flat surface, and rub all over (both sides) with fingers dipped in coconut oil. | ||
| - | * Lightly grease your drying board (or mould) with Vaseline to prevent the pellicle from sticking as it dries. | + | * Lightly grease your drying board (or a mould if you want to end up with a particular shape) with Vaseline to prevent the pellicle from sticking as it dries. |
| * Spread the pellicle over the greased board or shaped mould and allow it to dry for 4 -7 days. | * Spread the pellicle over the greased board or shaped mould and allow it to dry for 4 -7 days. | ||
| * The 1cm thick pellicle will shrink to a 1-2mm thickness as the water evaporates. The length and breadth of the drying sheet will not change appreciably. | * The 1cm thick pellicle will shrink to a 1-2mm thickness as the water evaporates. The length and breadth of the drying sheet will not change appreciably. | ||
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| * Split the volume and use it to seed two new brews (maybe a friend would like one). | * Split the volume and use it to seed two new brews (maybe a friend would like one). | ||
| * Move the existing brew to a larger container and add more tea. | * Move the existing brew to a larger container and add more tea. | ||
| - | * Pour it away, though be careful about using it on plants - it is very acidic, and would need to be neutralized first (for example, by adding | + | * Pour it away, though be careful about using it on plants - it is very acidic, and would need to be neutralized first (for example, by adding |
| - | Because the growing conditions described here cannot be guaranteed to give an uncontaminated product, it not advisable to drink your brew. | + | Because the growing conditions described here cannot be guaranteed to give an uncontaminated product, it is not advisable to drink your brew. |
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| Thinner wet material (<5mm) often appears semi-transparent, | Thinner wet material (<5mm) often appears semi-transparent, | ||
| - | Thicker material (5 -10mm) is more robust, but still tends to become brittle | + | Thicker material (5 -10mm) is more robust, but still tends to become brittle |
| Very thick material (>15mm) dries very slowly, and has a dense, woody character. | Very thick material (>15mm) dries very slowly, and has a dense, woody character. | ||
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| ====Using the wet material==== | ====Using the wet material==== | ||
| - | By draping wet material over a prepared mould, and then allowing it to dry in place, rigid and persistent 3D shapes can be formed in the product. Sheets of the wet pellicle also have the property of fusing to fusing to each other as they dry in contact. Strips of wet material can therefore be used to drape over moulds with sharp corners, or complex curves in a similar way to //papier mache//, with the final product a single coherent mass. | + | By draping wet material over a prepared mould, and then allowing it to dry in place, rigid and persistent 3D shapes can be formed in the product. Sheets of the wet pellicle also have the property of fusing to each other as they dry in contact. Strips of wet material can therefore be used to drape over moulds with sharp corners, or complex curves in a similar way to //papier mache//, with the final product a single coherent mass. |
| - | When wet material is dried onto a form, it will pick up very fine detail (lettering, surface texture) from the form. The texture is only visible on the part of the sheet in contact with the form, but raised lettering can made if the letters are prominent enough. | + | When wet material is dried onto a form, it will pick up very fine detail (lettering, surface texture) from the form. The texture is only visible on the part of the sheet in contact with the form, but raised lettering can be made if the letters are prominent enough. |
| The laminating of sheets of wet material can be used to incorporate other fabrics (cotton gauze, for strength, for example), other objects (pressed flowers or leaves) or possibly elements of wearable technology. | The laminating of sheets of wet material can be used to incorporate other fabrics (cotton gauze, for strength, for example), other objects (pressed flowers or leaves) or possibly elements of wearable technology. | ||
| - | Wet material can also be blended to a pulp, and then used as a pourable casting medium to create solid 3D objects. Preliminary experiments have found that drying becomes very slow as depth of the pulp increases, and shrinkage also become | + | Wet material can also be blended to a pulp, and then used as a pourable casting medium to create solid 3D objects. Preliminary experiments have found that drying becomes very slow as the depth of the pulp increases, and shrinkage also becomes |
| ====examples==== | ====examples==== | ||
